Those hip, big-city restaurant concepts just keep coming to our little corner of paradise.
The latest entry to try to shake up our often-conservative dining scene is Union (8 E. Atlantic Ave., 561/330-4236), and “Asian fusion gastrolounge” from restaurateurs Stephen Chin and Scott Kennedy, which takes over the former downtown Delray site of the never-able-to-find-its-footing Caliente Kitchen.
The idea, the pair says, is “putting and electric and fun spin to conventional dining,” combining serious food from chef Rich Achaia with “small touches of pop culture,” like a giant television wall composed of 16 flat-screen TVs, a disco ball and Astroturf patio, and a cotton candy machine spinning the restaurant’s signature lychee-flavored cotton candy.
About that food. . . it’s a sexy-sounding Momofuku-esque menu, with dishes like spicy tuna tartare on crispy rice with chili aioli and jalapeno “caviar,” pork belly Asian sliders with lotus chips, fried rice with truffle butter and your choice of protein, Kung Pao lamb chops, and garlic blue crab and shrimp with garlic-infused egg noodles.
There’s also a mixological cocktail program that runs from a cotton candy martini (no kidding) to “liquid desserts” like Union’s version of the kiddie favorite S’mores (which in this case is marshmallow-infused Absolut vodka served in a glass rimmed with chocolate and graham cracker crumbs).
Nothing very conservative about that.