Greek cuisine. . . it’s not just belly dancers, baklava and “Opa!” any more. And here to prove it is Thasos (3330 E. Oakland Park Blvd., 954-200-6006), a sleek, elegant, contemporary Greek restaurant just opened off A1A in Fort Lauderdale.
Thasos is the brainchild of businessman Gus Leontarakis and partner Sophia Mylona, who are seeking to show off a “lighter, more refined” style of cookery than is typical of local Greek restaurants. To that end, they are chef William D’Auvray have created a menu that emphasizes spices herbs and olive oil rather than heavy sauces, and focuses on more modern and sophisticated preparations rather than the usual and all too familiar Greek culinary suspects.
What that means in your mouth are dishes like fennel salad with orange segments, manouri cheese and pine nuts; Brussels sprouts with lemon, honey and house-cured pork belly; baby cuttlefish grilled with thyme and olive oil; day-boat scallops with artichokes, orzo and brown butter; and spit-roasted crown rack of pork with zucchini fritters and jus.
Inside, the Angelos Angelopoulos-designed space is equally up-to-date, with a crisp, minimalistic look featuring white stucco walls bathed in constantly changing, multicolored lights, polished concrete floors, white marble bar, exhibition kitchen, lounge and outdoor patio. If a steady diet of stuffed grape leaves and wiggling belly dancers isn’t your cup of ouzo, Thasos may be just the Greek restaurant for you.