A “modern Continental restaurant” might seem like one of those oxy-type morons—you know, “marijuana initiative,” “military intelligence”—but don’t tell that to former New York restaurateur Chris Lanza, whose recently opened Boca Raton eatery is promising just that.

Lanza’s local venture is DORSiA (5837 N. Federal Hwy., 561/961-4156), whose modest façade belies a dining room-bar that channels the comfortable elegance of those classic Continental restaurants you probably remember as a kid. (Think white tablecloths, big chandeliers, comfy leather barstools and long banquettes.)

The menu of contemporary takes on Continental dishes hardly breaks any new culinary ground, but it does offer the satisfaction of the familiar tweaked just enough to make it interesting again. There’s grilled calamari with lemon-basil dressing; sweet potato gnocchi with brown butter, walnuts and sage; veal scallopine with artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes; and salmon with a smoked salmon-horseradish crust and beurre blanc.

Prices are reasonable too, with most apps under $12 and most entrees coming in under $25. No oxymoron there.