Eat your way through Rome—one of my favorite food cities in all the world—without ever leaving Delray Beach at Angelo Elia’s new D’Angelo Trattoria (9 SE 7thAve., 561/330-1237).

Chef-owner Elia has certainly made his culinary bones in these parts with his estimable Casa D’Angelos in Boca Raton and Fort Lauderdale, and with exec chef Rickie Piper has created the Trattoria to introduce diners to rustic, boldly flavorful Roman dishes, the likes of which are seen about as often in local Italian restaurants as sweet ‘n’ sour pork.

On your plate, that translates into dishes like roasted veal marrow bone with casareccio bread, parsley and caper pesto; burrata over roasted fava beans with watercress and pepper oil dressing; bucatini with wild boar ragout; and roasted milk-fed piglet marinated in herbs, juniper berries and black pepper. There’s also a wood-fired pizza oven and dessert from an in-house pastry chef.

The space itself is the former Carolina’s pizza, a 1920s bungalow fashioned into a 120-seat restaurant by architect Alfredo Leon. The dining room boasts espresso-stained wood floors, limestone walls, granite-topped bar and custom-made light sconces. There’s outdoor dining in the front and back, plus a glassed-in, temperature-controlled wine room.

D’Angelo Trattoria is open for dinner daily and takes reservations for parties of six or more.