Thursday, Jan. 15, is scheduled opening day for Apeiro (14917 Lyons Rd., 561/826-1790), Burt Rapoport’s modern pan-Mediterranean eatery in the giant Delray Marketplace complex at West Atlantic Avenue and Lyons Road.
In addition to taking inspiration from cuisines throughout the Mediterranean rather than just Italy, Apeiro (“infinite” in Greek) is also Rapoport’s double-down bet on the future of West County dining. It’s a future that looks pretty bright, at least judging by the crowds that can wait for an hour or more to get into his next-door eatery, Burt & Max’s, on busy weekend evenings.
Heading up the kitchen is chef-partner David Blonsky, who comes to Apeiro from Chicago, where he worked with such culinary heavy hitters as Rick Tramanto and Gail Gand and opened such highly regarded restaurants as Public House and Siena Tavern.
At Apeiro, the restaurant’s sunny blue, gold and white color palette is reflected in the menu, which segues from grilled Spanish octopus and Morrocan-spiced lamb ribs to whole roasted branzino and charred eggplant meatballs to swordfish kabobs with salsa verde and meatball sliders with tomato sauce and pesto.
And just because everyone is putting the final touches on the restaurant prior to debut doesn’t mean Rapoport and Blonsky are letting any arugula grow under their feet. There’s a second Apeiro coming later this year, probably in September, to Midtown Miami.