Does the restaurant-eating location at 210 E. Ocean Ave. in Lantana have another meal?
For the sake of Fiorenzo Trunzo we can only hope not. Trunzo, you see, is the chef-owner of Paesano (561/547-0266) a retro, 1950s-style Italian restaurant-slash-steakhouse that has taken over the gorgeous, semi-open and perpetually star-crossed spot formerly home to Tapas 210 and before that the very good and very odd Apicius.
Harking back to an era when, “Life was easy and fun. Amore was plentiful, worries less and the food was always bellisimo,” Paesano offers both traditional and more contemporary dishes, from eggplant Parmigiana, fettucine Bolognese and veal Milanese to tuna tartar tower with avocado and seaweed, spaghetti with bottarga in a spicy garlic sauce and a Kobe-style beef burger with brandy cocktail sauce and taleggio cheese. There’s also pizza and a roster of Black Angus steaks.
Keep your fingers crossed Paesano sticks around. A setting this pretty deserves a good restaurant.
